Chef Lukáš Hesko grew up in a family that paid attention to good cuisine. His father, a butcher, and his mother, a dietitian at the Piešťany spa, complemented his grandmother perfectly. Lukáš's love for good food grew during high school and immediately after, when he went abroad to gain experience. After several years in the UK and Sweden, he returned to Slovakia and launched the concept of the Fach restaurant, for which he received the Chef of the Year 2017 award from the Gurmán Award. He also worked at the Trnava Academy and in February 2022 opened his own restaurant, Irin. right next to the St. Martin's Cathedral in Bratislava. It is named after his grandmother Irene. And period.
Have you always wanted to return to Slovakia?
I wanted to, I'm a patriot, and at the same time, whenever I saw something in Sweden, I said to myself, I'll do this at home like this and that. When I opened Fach, I was happy to be in Slovakia, but it took a lot of strength from me, so in my own project I want to break it down and master it all gradually.
What about Langošbar, which you opened during the pandemic - was it a kind of intermediate step?
That was such a recession. When the pandemic started, and the space in Stará Tržnica became available, my friend and I were thinking about what to do with it. Originally, we wanted a more orthodox pizzeria, but it wouldn't fit there, so we came up with langos and drinks. And it was great, fun, but I don't go there anymore, my partner takes care of it, because it was already too difficult for me. Moreover, here at Irin. I'm trying to create something different, the opposite of the langos concept. So I decided to move on from that.
So how would you characterize your cuisine, your concept in Irin?
From what you say, you place a lot of emphasis on raw materials.
Yes, I do. I feel like we've all gone a little crazy, the fish must be Slovak, but no one cares anymore about what kind of fish they are, where they are raised, what they are fed, etc. I'd rather work with good saltwater fish from a proven source than have a Slovak trout that was fed pellets and grew by half a kilo in three months.
In the restaurant, we try not to waste food, we also use offal, basically we follow the "nose-to-tail" principle so that we don't throw anything away and the whole concept is sustainable.
We change the menu gradually, on average one dish per week, to surprise even returning guests.
We also offer wine pairings with the menu. We offer mostly regional wines and some vintages from around the world. We have three sommeliers on our team who are true experts.
What are your plans with Irin?
As I mentioned, the concept is defined, I just want to improve it. The kitchen is demanding, every day is different. I am a perfectionist, but I am probably a little more relaxed than in the past. I try to be inspired everywhere I go. My holidays are mainly about food, with my family it has changed a bit, but for example I used to go to Barcelona to eat, not to the beach. It's not that I have to, but I want to, I like the feeling of tasting good food and good wine. And I would like to bring that emotion to Irin as well.
Fach was a very nice project, but I also liked the Academy, which I thought would be the path to fine cuisine. It was great, but we were more into preparing dishes to go with beer. I was already torn about leaving with my whole family to Sweden, but then this space came along that had captivated me for a long time, so we decided to stay. It's my dream come true.
In my opinion, it's a kind of hybrid gastronomy of me and the things that shaped me. I love Indian cuisine, but I cook something completely different, simpler, more elegant, more similar to Scandinavian and Italian cuisine. We try to provide people with emotion. The dishes we prepare have different textures, flavors that go well together, but are also completely different. We don't use exoticism, our cuisine has recognizable flavors for Slovakia, playful and simple at the same time. We want the raw material on which the dish is based to stand out. We also rely on unconventional combinations that people may not be used to. We insert a moment of surprise, something memorable, but at the same time delicious. And it has to taste good to me myself.
What does the tasting dinner you offer look like?
It is actually seven courses, to which we also serve smaller appetizers, such as snacks, canapés, etc. A total of ten courses, which are compiled with regard to the season and availability of ingredients. There is a vegetable course, a meat course, courses with eggs, a lighter "pre-dessert" and then a richer dessert. Technologically, we have adapted to our modest cuisine. The amount of food in each course is adjusted so that guests leave full and satisfied, but at the same time, so that it is not difficult for them.
In restaurants like yours, it's common for the food to be served by chefs. How is it at your place?
For me, good service is fundamental and I pay great attention to it. My colleagues from the service department prepare tables, cutlery, pour wine, navigate and seat guests... We, the chefs, serve the food and tell the guests what they have on their plate.
At Irin. we have an open kitchen, and when I try something new, I'm always tense and watch people eat it, whether they like it, whether it's comfort food... It's great that we're connected like this. I try to make everything work in the kitchen and in the service, because only then can creativity come.
